Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Firstly, free up the surface of any soil or chemicals for waterproofing the floor. Now add the primer to the surface which requires waterproofing. Afterwards, apply the bond breaker correctly on the joints. Then apply membrane waterproofing coats over the entire surface. The second coat of waterproofing membrane shall be applied to the first coat at an angle of 90 Degrees. Let it dry, and your work is done.
A primer helps in getting the surface ready for waterproofing. Next, it separates the contaminants and the dust from the surface, the porosity is also reduced. It also reduces the pin holding and stops the excessive residual moisture in the surfaces from affecting the waterproofing membrane. If this moisture reaches the membrane, blistering may result, and that is not nice for waterproofing.
Primer is a must over other substrates, except for the waterproofing membranes. Waterproofing membranes are non-absorbent, so it’s not needed there. Primer is also necessary if the manufacturer’s warranty is not to be annulled.
No, that is not going to work like that. On walls, the rendered coatings work much like raincoats on our body. The sealing must be intact at 100 per cent otherwise when the rendered surface leaks even a bit. Water can penetrate deep into the wall.
Waterproofing is a vital practice that the common man sometimes overlooks. A building suffers from structural damage due to the water infiltration. Even when you initially find water leakage in walls, the damage might already have turned permanent. Your roof deck may even decay due to trapped moisture. If water reaches the walls, then rusting of steel angles can cause more damage to the beams supporting the frame. Therefore waterproofing is necessary.
Efflorescence is the hazy white material that develops on the concrete because the Calcium Hydroxide salt that is present in all forms of cement surfaces through concrete walls. When this salt comes over the surface, it reacts in the atmosphere producing Calcium Carbonate with carbon-di-oxide. This Calcium Carbonate is the hazy/flaky white efflorescence you see.
Once the surface is wet, efflorescence becomes transparent, and you can see the bright colours underneath it. Yet as soon as the surface is dry again, the hazy substance reappears. Efflorescence appears more strongly on paints and tiles with a darker colour.
Efflorescence can damage walls and cause the walls to lose their structural integrity. This, in the long term, can result in some significant problem.
Amongst the different forms of pool tiles are porcelain, mosaic, ceramic, brick, stone etc. Typically, the tile a pool owner chooses depends on his choices of colour, size, and price. The texture is another factor given the fact that smooth tiles look fantastic, but textured tiles appear to offer better grip.
The critical difference between these two types of tiles lies in the method of producing them. The production process makes porcelain tougher than ceramic, and therefore more durable. Porcelain tiles are denser than ceramic tiles and are more challenging to install. Porcelain tiles may also have full body designs, indicating that their patterns spread all across tile while in ceramic tiles it remains only in the glazing layer at the top.
The mosaic tiles give your swimming pool architecture a vibrant look. Unlike many tiles on the market, mosaic comes in a range of colours and patterns that suit every theme in the backyard. Mosaics are different pieces of pool tiles made of glass, ceramic or porcelain, combined to create a particular pattern. They come in sheets which can be conveniently placed on the bottom or sides of the pool.
First check that contaminants like oil, dust, efflorescence or corrosion are not present on the surface. If they are present, then eliminate those. And in case the surface is painted all the colour needs to be sanded. You need to let the concrete shell dry for a full six weeks in case of new pools and in such a case you also need to apply primers. If you are tiling over cement rendering, let it heal for at least three weeks. Then apply the adhesive. For heavy-duty applications add water replacement.
Glazed ceramic tiles are tiles that have a layer of liquid glass coating as a glaze. This liquid glass coating is executed on most ceramic and porcelain tiles. Glazing gives colour to the tiles and makes them stain-resistant and water-resistant.
Porcelain tiles contain porcelain and other added minerals. They’re durable, resistant to water and very strong. Porcelain tiles owe these characteristics to the raw materials used and the high temperatures at which they are produced. They are baked at 1200 degrees centigrade. Therefore porcelain tiles are perfect for industrial and high traffic purposes.
The best choice would be of any tile with less water absorption. Some good options include porcelain, vinyl, and stone. Ceramic is also a common alternative, but it does have a higher rate of water absorption, an alternate choice here can be of a glazed ceramic tile.
The main factors influencing the strength of the bond are the contact area and the atmospheric temperature and humidity. Hence we need to enhance the area of contact by applying the tile with a twisting motion and pressing them with a rubber mallet to make a stable adhesive bed.
The adhesive which is used for sticking a tile is a tile adhesive. This clings the tile down to the floor. It comes in two different versions-cement and premixed paste. The type of adhesive that will be used is determined by various conditions like, above all, the type of tile, i.e. stone, ceramic or porcelain. Next are the substrate and the underneath surface, plus other conditions, including temperature and humidity.
Water helps to bind cement to the sand, and that bond stretches further into the substrate below and the tiles above. The sand, cement, and water ratios are also crucial for successful bonding. If any of these three constituents are too much or too less, it may result in a weakened bond.
The polymer is applied to standard adhesives to improve their resistance to water, resilience and most importantly, strength properties. Porcelain and vitrified tiles are very thick, and thus cement crystals cannot enter such tiles. Thus, these modified adhesives react chemically with the tiles, adding polymer, and form a bond. Polymers also allow excellent bonds between sand, cement, and substrates.
Movement joints can be explained as the blank spaces left inside the tile that is not grouted. This leaves space for movement of the tile surface. Movement joints are of two forms- Field and Perimeter.
Grout joints are the optimal way to place tiles because they provide room for tile movement and prevent compressive stress build-up. They provide the adhesive with a medium to adequately cure and form a strong bond. It requires at least a gap of 5mm in ceramic tiles and 3mm in porcelain tiles.
Additives can be applied to the grout or adhesive and used to increase productivity. It will increase the resistance to water, stains and chemical reactions depending on the type of additive you select and for which reason you are using it. It also can improve bond strength.
No, you shouldn’t. Always render with a modified acrylic render, then apply the primer. Then the adhesive, and finally position the tiles.
Yes, but the tiles need to be prepared for the surface. You will need to scrap the paint first, minimum 80 per cent for PVA paint and 100 per cent for painting with enamel. Now clean all dust and loose paint from the surface, and the surface gets primed. Then applying of adhesive is done, and then the tiles are placed.
Any larger tile or 600mm x 600mm ranged tile is considered a large format tile. Some specific steps that are required for large format tiles are, the adhesive used must be fast setting. Furthermore, because larger tiles can be bent in between, it is therefore essential to add adhesive on the back of tiles. Finally, the joints should be at least 3mm in case of porcelain and at least 5mm in case of the ceramic.
Yes, so long as you operate on a comparatively solid surface, you can retile. The existing tile surface should be immaculate, free from powdery mildew, and without any distorting or oddly-shaped tiles that could otherwise interfere with a smooth new covering.
Matte tiles are great, as water stains or blemishes are not visible. These are therefore ideally suited for shower areas. They are low maintenance and do not create much of a dramatic effect such as shiny tiles.
Replacing tile shower is not cheap as you don’t only have to add tiles, but along with that, the area must be waterproofed, and it includes levelling and then waterproofing. As it’s a costly affair to replace it, take care of building it according to the Australian standards, at the first time itself, strictly and carefully.
Aged shower tiles can be painted on. Whether the issue is the colour of the tile or the design, you can mask it with epoxy paint. You should not put paint on grout while working. To stop doing so involuntarily, protect the grout lines with masking tape before you start painting.
Depending on your style and personality, the floor and wall tiles may be the costliest. Other costs which may be substantial are the fixtures and the layout of the shower etc.
First, you can modify your bathroom tiles to give it a fresh style. Apart from that, you can alter the fixtures such as sinks, bathrooms and even faucets for a bolder upgrade. Switch bath and sink arrangement and other decorative arts for a low budget but a successful renovation. Bathroom lighting also plays a critical part.
Yes, although the rest of the bathroom is being renovated, you can retain the same tiles, ensuring that they are not damaged or spilling. It also becomes essential to have the same tiles, if you already have the same tiles in the adjacent space.
Echuca Tiling is a respected and reputed firm of Echuca’s tiling and waterproofing industry. Our company is all about three virtues- honesty, quality, and passion. We assure you that our working will be sincere and transparent. Also, we provide the best workmanship possible and that too, with an eye to detail. Lastly, it is always a pleasure to take up a project, and we complete it with a lot of enthusiasm and passion.